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A young rider is crossing the high, empty Ladakh plateau on his Royal Enfield Himalayan, trying to reach Tso Moriri. The bike belonged to his late brother, Kabir. He pushes hard (“Almost there”), but the thin air starts choking the engine. It coughs black smoke, sputters and dies in the sand. He tries to fix it on the spot, gets frustrated, and slams the tank. An old nomad herder walking with his yaks stops to talk. The rider insists he can reach